erin/48ish
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  • v3 2e72f8cbaf

    v3 Stable

    erin released this 2025-11-13 18:03:01 +00:00 | 1 commits to main since this release

    There's now two versions of the board, one for MBK and one for CFX. v3.mbk is fundamentally the same as v2 and uses an 18x17mm spacing between switches, which is good for FK's MBK keycaps. v3.cfx is new and uses a square 17x17mm grid for Chosfox's CFX keycaps. v3.cfx is not as wide and has different mounting hole spacing and power/reset switch positioning as a result of the narrower size.

    image

    v3 PCBs are dated 2025-11-05; i got around to the git tagging and such a little late.

    manufacturing files

    MBK (18x17mm) and CFX (17x17mm) production files are both attached.

    gerbers/drills for PCB manufacturing: 48ish_soldered_mbk_out.zip or 48ish_soldered_cfx_out.zip
    pick and place file for PCB bottom side assembly: 48ish_soldered_mbk-bottom-pos.csv or 48ish_soldered_cfx-bottom-pos.csv
    BOM for PCB bottom side assembly: both board variants use the same file, 48ish_soldered_bom.csv

    Ordering instructions and other parts you'll need to turn these files into a completed board are otherwise the same as in v2. Pay close attention to the size of your keycaps and make sure you order the right board variant. MX spacing is not supported by either variant (yet™️). Note that with JLCPCB you'll still need to be careful that all the diodes are facing the right way.

    Downloads
  • v2 59e20dc578

    v2 Stable

    erin released this 2025-09-30 03:04:09 +00:00 | 15 commits to main since this release

    fixes the weird terrible power switch trace issue from last time. also redoes the entire fucking board from scratch and its better now trust me

    screenshot of kicad 3d preview of the board

    manufacturing

    with JLCPCB:

    • upload gerbers from 48ish_soldered_out.zip
    • select pcb assembly
    • when prompted, upload 48ish_soldered_bom.csv as the bill of materials, and 48ish_soldered-bottom-pos.csv as the part placement file
    • verify that all the components are oriented correctly in the preview. everything will probably be rotated by 180 degrees because manufacturing standards do not exist; select everything on the bottom layer and then rotate everything so the switch pads line up and the diode orientation matches the reference on the silkscreen

    the BOM includes JLCPCB part numbers for the diodes, power switch, and reset switch which you'll pay for as part of the PCB assembly process. other components you'll need:

    • nice!nano v2
    • pins and sockets for said nice!nano v2 (low-profile is good) (https://typeractive.xyz/products/machine-sockets-and-pins)
      • typeractive
      • little keyboards
      • the sockets are through-hole but need to be trimmed flush with the front side of the board so keyswitches can go on the front. it helps to tack the sockets into place from the PCB backside first, then trim all the leads flush, then solder the frontside being careful not to use too much solder. this should leave a mostly flat surface that keyswitches can sit on top of
    • battery and battery connector
      • typeractive has this chonky 750mAh battery and jst sockets. if you want you can also skip the socket and order the battery with the extension wires that solder directly to the board; make sure you have adequate strain relief if you do
    • choc v1-compatible keycaps
    • choc v1 switches
    • you're on your own with making a case. though all the critical dimensions are documented on the board itself so it shouldn't be that bad hopefully
    Downloads
  • v1 d6c19c730a

    v1 Stable

    erin released this 2025-08-14 05:12:21 +00:00 | 38 commits to main since this release

    initial version that's sitting on my desk right now

    has issues

    • a trace running past the battery switch is inside the keep-out zone of one of the switch chassis pads and may be shorted to it. with the specific switch i used, the chassis pads are continuous with pin 3, which is meant to be the unconnected "off" position to disconnect the battery. on my board this means that switching the battery "off" actually connects battery positive directly into a row GPIO line, which puts the controller in a weird semi-powered state and causes spurious inputs and continues to drain the battery

      this will be fixed in v2, or you can fix it yourself by scratching out the problematic trace on either side of the switch and bodging together the diodes on either side

    Downloads